The last week of March, we embarked on a remarkable study trip to Istanbul – a city full of contrasts and, during our visit, also the backdrop to turbulent political developments and protests.
We visited a wide range of organisations, groups, and movements, engaging in in-depth conversations with people from across the political spectrum. These discussions were intense, thought-provoking, and inspiring. Our group consisted of 18 participants – really the maximum group size for us – but it worked out brilliantly. A diverse group that challenged, supported, and genuinely connected with one another.
The success of the trip wouldn’t have been possible without the people who guided us through the city. First, Ferhan Palaz, who introduced us to an array of fascinating speakers and initiatives.
And of course, Özlem Temena founder if FixIstanbul: journalist, guide, organiser, and local expert. She had an extraordinary ability to sense what sparked our curiosity, shared her knowledge with passion, and took us to places you would never discover on your own. Truly an exceptional guide.
One of the highlights was a lecture by Arda Temena on Turkey’s shifting demographics, the healthcare system, and, in particular, the wellbeing of older people. Poverty emerged as a central theme – affecting so many and posing a major barrier to well-functioning systems. We also visited Darülaceze Elderly Care Home a centuries-old facilities for the elderly, including those in need of significant care – a moving experience that connected the past with today’s urgent social challenges.
At the Dutch Consulate in Taksim, Istanbul, we had the privilege of being hosted by Nazan Sören and Consul General Arjen Uijterlinde, along with two trainees. They provided us with fascinating insights into Dutch-Turkish relations, diplomatic dynamics, and the socio-political landscape of Turkey. Their perspectives added valuable depth to our understanding of the region.
We also had the privilege of visiting the Sahkulu Sultan Dergâhı Cem House – a spiritual and cultural centre for the Alevi community. We were warmly welcomed and received a rich and insightful introduction to Alevism, a belief system within Islam with deep roots in Anatolian history and culture. We owe special thanks to Muharrem Cengiz, without whom this visit would not have been possible.
Additionally, we visited the Pera Museum, a renowned cultural institution in Istanbul known for its rich collection of Orientalist paintings, Anatolian weights and measures, and other significant artifacts. A special highlight was the temporary exhibition by the passionate Canadian artist Marcel Dzama, whose work offers a critical perspective on political developments in the USA. His surreal, often satirical imagery provided an intriguing commentary on contemporary issues, adding another dimension to our understanding of artistic expression as a form of social critique.
What also makes our trips so interesting are the locals we can invite to join us at the table. This includes all the remarkable people we met along the way, but also Ayşe Özsoy, who acted as a bridge between different people we met, and Ertan Karabiyik, whose work has given him extensive contacts in the Netherlands and who has already cycled thousands of kilometers across the country.
Naturally, we also got to savour the city’s diverse cuisines – in restaurants that only Özlem could have found for us. And afterwards, there’s little more magical than crossing the Bosphorus by one of the old ferries at different times of the day. That’s when the camera almost burns in your hands.
We explored both the European and Anatolian (Asian) sides of the city. Istanbul is a universe in itself – you could spend a lifetime observing, listening, and learning. But in these six days, thanks to careful preparation, the right people, and sharp conversations, we truly peeled back another layer.
This is a trip that will stay with us for a long time to come – and soon, we’ll know where our next study journey will take us.
And yes . . . there were cats!